Articles
FLORAL AND PLANT DESIGNS IN NOH COSTUMES
Article number
391_27
Pages
265 – 272
Language
Abstract
About 2730 pieces of Noh costumes made during 16th–19th century were examined to know what kinds of flowers or plants were used for motifs on costumes.
About 90% of costumes for female roles such as Karaori, Nuihaku, Maiginu and Choken were designed with one or more kinds of ornamental or wild plants, which were woven, embroidered, or pressed with gold or silver leaf, and 106 species of plants were identified.
Some of the most numerous plants represented were chrysanthemum, flowering cherry, peony, paulownia, pine and Lespedeza sp., etc.
Some weeds and aquatic plants such as dandelion, Galium sp., Monochoria sp. and Sagittaria sp., and many imaginary plants, that is Karahana (fancy flower) and Karakusa (leaf scroll), were also recognized.
Unidentified plants were only found in 1% of samples.
Historical background of the special taste of the Japanese for using various actual flowers and plants as designs for costumes is discussed.
About 90% of costumes for female roles such as Karaori, Nuihaku, Maiginu and Choken were designed with one or more kinds of ornamental or wild plants, which were woven, embroidered, or pressed with gold or silver leaf, and 106 species of plants were identified.
Some of the most numerous plants represented were chrysanthemum, flowering cherry, peony, paulownia, pine and Lespedeza sp., etc.
Some weeds and aquatic plants such as dandelion, Galium sp., Monochoria sp. and Sagittaria sp., and many imaginary plants, that is Karahana (fancy flower) and Karakusa (leaf scroll), were also recognized.
Unidentified plants were only found in 1% of samples.
Historical background of the special taste of the Japanese for using various actual flowers and plants as designs for costumes is discussed.
Authors
H. Tanaka
Keywords
Floral design, Identification, Karaori, Nuihaku, Noh costume, Plant designs, Sense of the seasons
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