Articles
Cochineal: products used in the formulation of lipstick and its comparison with commercial lipstick
Article number
1452_59
Pages
455 – 462
Language
English
Abstract
The cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa) is a Hemiptera insect belonging to the Dactylopiidae family, originally from Mexico.
Currently, the worldwide trend of consuming products free of chemical additives and, above all, the constant reports of allergies and other diseases, including cancer, have made natural pigments once again preferred instead of those of synthetic origin.
Therefore, the objective of this work was to make a comparison between the cosmetic made with wax (coccicerin) and pigment (carmine lacquer) from the cochineal insect, against a similar commercial cosmetic.
In the methodology, physicochemical tests were carried out (organoleptic tests, color measurement, melting point, humidity percentage, pH measurement), in addition, a comparison was made between the lipstick with carmine lacquer and coccicerin (0, 50 and 100%), against a commercial lipstick, through a statistical analysis obtained with the STATGRAPHICS program.
It was found that coccicerin has a high melting point (86-115.67°C), versus the synthetic microcrystalline wax initially used in the same cosmetic (71-98°C), which allows the final formulation using coccicerin wax to have a higher melting point of 76.3±0.78°C. In addition to using the natural wax obtained from the insect in the lipstick, the carmine lacquer pigment is also used, obtaining an intense red color (a*=5.71±0.17), thus proving that coccicerin wax influences the final color of the formulation.
In conclusion, the lipsticks with carmine lacquer and coccicerin, from cochineal, have a higher pH and melting point that ensures their stability against high temperatures, but require adjustments to improve the color.
Currently, the worldwide trend of consuming products free of chemical additives and, above all, the constant reports of allergies and other diseases, including cancer, have made natural pigments once again preferred instead of those of synthetic origin.
Therefore, the objective of this work was to make a comparison between the cosmetic made with wax (coccicerin) and pigment (carmine lacquer) from the cochineal insect, against a similar commercial cosmetic.
In the methodology, physicochemical tests were carried out (organoleptic tests, color measurement, melting point, humidity percentage, pH measurement), in addition, a comparison was made between the lipstick with carmine lacquer and coccicerin (0, 50 and 100%), against a commercial lipstick, through a statistical analysis obtained with the STATGRAPHICS program.
It was found that coccicerin has a high melting point (86-115.67°C), versus the synthetic microcrystalline wax initially used in the same cosmetic (71-98°C), which allows the final formulation using coccicerin wax to have a higher melting point of 76.3±0.78°C. In addition to using the natural wax obtained from the insect in the lipstick, the carmine lacquer pigment is also used, obtaining an intense red color (a*=5.71±0.17), thus proving that coccicerin wax influences the final color of the formulation.
In conclusion, the lipsticks with carmine lacquer and coccicerin, from cochineal, have a higher pH and melting point that ensures their stability against high temperatures, but require adjustments to improve the color.
Authors
G. Arroyo, T. Medina, L. Rosas, M.I. García
Keywords
insects, wax, carmine, pigment, cosmetics
Groups involved
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